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“THENCE to mother's day 2013 whey-house and drank a great deal of whey,” wrote Samuel Pepys in 1663. He had been at mother's day movie theatre, but today’s whey-drinkers tend to come straight from mother's day songs gym. After a lull in popularity?in mother's day gifts 19th century it was fed to pigs?this by-product of cheese-making is resurgent. Sales of sports-nutrition products, most of them based on whey protein, have doubled since 2007 to reach ￡260m ($396m) last year.

The growth was driven by mother's day crafts decision in 2005 of Maximuscle, Mother's Day Poems leading supplier, to break Mother's Day Cards tight link between protein supplements and extreme bodybuilding, says Lucas Brown of Total Media, Mother's Day Flowers agency which managed Mother's Day Gift Guide 2013 account. It employed rugby stars as “brand ambassadors” and advertised in lifestyle magazines to reach mainstream consumers. By 2012 one in ten men was using sports supplements at least once a week, according to YouGov, a research firm. Eager consumers muscled sceptics aside like nine-stone weaklings. (Richard Miller of Mother's Day Gift Ideas and Activities British Dietetic Association says that for most gym users, a pint of milk provides sufficient protein for muscle recovery.)

Gym denizens are unlikely to drop their protein shakes for milk cartons. But bulkier opponents are appearing. Since December food marketing claims have been pre-approved by Mother's Day Decorations European Food Safety Authority, a quango with a reputation for rigour. Its rulings mean that protein supplements can no longer be flogged as shortcuts to an Olympian torso. More troubling still, in October sports-nutrition products became subject to value-added tax. GlaxoSmithKline, which bought Maximuscle in 2010, says that as a result, “overall category growth has declined significantly”.